Telia Rumal is a square shaped loincloth made in
Andhra Pradesh using the tie-and-dye technique. It was also known as Asia rumal in the past.
Pochampalli, Chirala, Koyalagudeni and Puttupaka village specialize in this art. The word ‘telia’ refers to the oily smell imparted by the use of alizarin dyes and ‘rumal’ means square.
Alizarin, iron or indigo and numerous vegetable oils are involved in the making of this cloth. The fabric is oiled and then tied in certain areas to prevent the dye from percolating. The tied fabric is dipped in the dye. The end product is a soft luminous cloth featuring intricate designs. The colors, which included red, pink and purple, vary in their intensities depending on the oil mordant that is used. This cloth can be worn as a headgear, stoles, lungis and even as saris.
